Summary: Top: hourly electricity (kWh) as an hour-of-day × date heatmap. Bottom: daily gas (therms) on the shared date axis. Together they expose load timing, the seasonal heating signature, and any anomalies at a glance, the raw material for the analysis below.
Technical read: Every column is one day of the year, left to right. In the top chart, the rows are the 24 hours of the day and the color shows how much electricity you used (brighter = more) , so you can literally see your daily rhythm, the morning and evening bumps, and the quiet overnight hours. The thin strip underneath is daily natural gas; watch it glow through the cold months as the furnace works, then fade in summer.
Summary: Each dot is one day: how cold it was (left–right) vs. how much gas you burned (up–down). Above 58°F you burn almost no gas for heat, the sun, your appliances and your own body heat keep the house warm for free. Once it drops below 58°F the furnace kicks in, and the line tilts up. How steep that tilt is = how fast heat leaks out of your house. A flatter line would mean a better-insulated home.
Technical read: Heating switches on only below 58°F, a relatively low balance point that signals a reasonably tight shell (a leaky home needs heat at 62–65°F). The heating slope of 0.245 therms per heating-degree-day is a direct proxy for the envelope's heat-loss rate and can be benchmarked against homes of similar age and size. The weather-independent base of 0.87 therms/day is water heating plus cooking. With R² = 0.71, outdoor temperature explains 71% of daily gas use, a trustworthy model.
Summary: Same idea, now for electricity. If you ran air conditioning, the dots would climb on hot days (the right side). Yours stay flat, your electric bill doesn't care how hot it is outside. That's the Bay Area coastal climate doing your cooling for free, and it's good news: no AC to run, repair, or upgrade.
Technical read: The cooling slope is essentially zero (R² = 0.01): electricity does not rise with heat, confirming there is no cooling load, typical of Piedmont's marine microclimate. We can state with confidence that this household spends nothing on air conditioning. Any cold-weather uptick is minor supplemental electric heat or simply more time spent indoors.
Summary: This is your average day, hour by hour. Notice the bars never drop to zero, even at 3am, when everyone's asleep, the house pulls 0.47 kW nonstop. That round-the-clock trickle adds up to roughly 56% of your entire electric bill, paid for things running 24/7 (fridge, electronics on standby, maybe an old second fridge or a pump). Finding and unplugging the worst offenders is usually the cheapest way to cut the bill.
Technical read: Overnight draw holds a steady 0.47 kW (≈ 11.2 kWh/day), about 56% of the 20 kWh average day is consumed while ‘nothing is happening.’ A continuous draw this size points to phantom loads, an aging refrigerator, or always-on equipment. This is where the dollars hide, and it is the prime target for on-site plug-level metering. Navy bars mark your E-TOU-D peak window (5–8pm weekdays).
Summary: Your plan (E-TOU-D) charges the most for electricity during 5–8pm weekdays (navy). You only use 12% of your power then, most of it happens at cheaper hours. That's already efficient on your wallet. If you later add an EV or a heat-pump water heater, setting them to run overnight keeps them in the cheap window.
Technical read: Read directly from your meter, your rate is E-TOU-D (peak 5–8pm weekdays). Only 12% of consumption falls in that peak window, with 88% off-peak, a strong profile. Shifting EV charging or a future heat-pump water heater into off-peak hours would push this lower still, cutting the bill without cutting usage.